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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 8:22 pm • # 21 
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I bought a yellow 2 piece ultralightweight 5 foot (5.5?) Fenwick spinning rod on sale for $9 from Wallyworld.
I put a 4000 size cheap reel that I've used for a year trolling bluefish with on it, with 8 lb monofilament.
I rigged a 1/16th ounce "rooster tail spinner" in white with black polka dots.
And, I caught two trout on it. First time I've caught trout on a spinning rod, ever. The next day my kids caught a bunch too.
I also caught on a nice streamer on the fly rod. So ultralight spinning works.

Interestingly I could cast farther with my 6 weight line than I could cast with the spinning rig. But I can barely cast properly with spinning equipment. So not a good test.

Here's what it looks like in action. (I didn't realize the stock truck had been there a few hours earlier. No wonder I caught trout on a spinner!)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMCzi2zYJu4


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 11:23 pm • # 22 
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Drop down to 4# or less and it will cast further. Line the reel with tippet for even better results. Just realize that mono is often under rated while tippet is pretty accurate.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 2:49 pm • # 23 
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One can look into Japanese market lines made specifically for ultralight applications.
http://www.finesse-fishing.com/shop-spinning-line.html


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 1:42 am • # 24 
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Thanks 4 the tip on line wgt. I bought some 4lb one closeout for 2.50 at wallyworld. Will try it.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 10:34 am • # 25 
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I just started using Sunline Troutist Area Meister in 3# (see jkurtz's link above). At only .005" it's as thin as tippet and casts MUCH better (farther) than 4# and even 2# mono. In the book Piscatorial Absurdities, Joe Robinson talks about spooling with tippet since even UL mono is usually over rated. I can confirm that since the 3# Sunline does break easier than my 2# SOS mono.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 12:39 pm • # 26 
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Knotty wrote:
I just started using Sunline Troutist Area Meister in 3# (see jkurtz's link above). At only .005" it's as thin as tippet and casts MUCH better (farther) than 4# and even 2# mono. In the book Piscatorial Absurdities, Joe Robinson talks about spooling with tippet since even UL mono is usually over rated. I can confirm that since the 3# Sunline does break easier than my 2# SOS mono.



The Troutist Area Meister #3 is probably breaking around #4 (at least that's my guess), most US made #4 breaks around #8.

I set the drag a little lighter than I usually do. One pound of pressure is a lot, try picking a 12 oz can up with a rod.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 6:39 pm • # 27 
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JB in SC wrote:
Knotty wrote:
I just started using Sunline Troutist Area Meister in 3# (see jkurtz's link above). At only .005" it's as thin as tippet and casts MUCH better (farther) than 4# and even 2# mono. In the book Piscatorial Absurdities, Joe Robinson talks about spooling with tippet since even UL mono is usually over rated. I can confirm that since the 3# Sunline does break easier than my 2# SOS mono.



The Troutist Area Meister #3 is probably breaking around #4 (at least that's my guess), most US made #4 breaks around #8.

I set the drag a little lighter than I usually do. One pound of pressure is a lot, try picking a 12 oz can up with a rod.


You've got a lot more experience with it than me but so far it seems to break similarly to some 2# and 3# tippet I use. But you're definitely right about the 4# mono being way under rated.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:32 pm • # 28 
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My favorite mono for UL fishing is the Damyl Tectan Superior in 2.3lb and 0.10mm (.0039") diam. The best mono I have ever used.


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 10:34 pm • # 29 
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fastyacht wrote:
Thanks 4 the tip on line wgt. I bought some 4lb one closeout for 2.50 at wallyworld. Will try it.


I had three hits on a spinner on Sunday--and didn't get any of them. They all came off after what I *thought* was a good load.

After switching back to the fly line and rod, with a streamer instead of a fly, I caught one easily. (But it was a 10 weight! oooof.

the 4 lb fluoro felt like a rubber band. Spinning gear is still beyond me.


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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 2:48 pm • # 30 
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JimRed wrote:
Knotty wrote:
Glad you mentioned the bail. I know Joe suggests bail-less reels to avoid line twist and tangles. Just to play around, I took the bail off a $20 Dick's rod/reel combo but not really sure about the proper technique for using it that way. Hopefully his book will shed some light.

Knotty, with the bail attached to the reel, cut the bail off at the reel pickup. Then remove the screw that attaches the other end of the bail to the reel housing. What you have left of the bail assembly is just the pick up.

I think the casting is self explanatory once you've gone this far.

Not only will you not have line twist, you will also experience silence in your casting; silence should be a real plus on those small streams you've posted pictures of. Makes for more enjoyable
fishing too without that bail flipping noise.


Personally, I have used a Mitchell 308 for years with the bail cut back to maybe one inch from the line guide. Yes, it is silent, except for keeping the anti-reverse engaged. One more plus is that with a little practice you can "feather" the line toward the end of your cast and bring the lure down on the water quite lightly, put your fingertip against the rim of the spool, bring the line back and start reeling. That can also keep the lure from sinking much before starting your retrieve, a real plus in shallow water.

The one thing I don't understand is how that could prevent line twist. The line still makes a 90-degree turn as it goes around the line guide and then goes onto the spool in the same direction.

What really seems to cause line twist is the position in which the line spool is held when initially winding line onto the reel spool. That takes a bit of experimenting to get right, at least for me. But for sure, the line spool needs to be kept from revolving during that operation, and should instead be held stationary so that the line comes freely off one end of the line spool


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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:57 pm • # 31 
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PampasPete, I agree about the bail not causing any more line twist than a reel without one. That is when used properly. I believe it is often the cause of birds nests when it pulls the line over the end face of the reel when closing it. I imagine many people consider it a gimmick but I've found that Wave Spin reels will not cause a tangle even when this happens. I have the ZTR1500 and have intentionally made casts when I see there's a loop in the line, or line going over the face, and it doesn't birds nest, even with thin .128mm/.005" line.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:07 pm • # 32 
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Grey Ghost wrote:
I'm kinna into the vintage stuff, One of my favorites is the old Shakespeare 2200, put a new bearing in them and give the drag mechanism a good going over,and it is a perfect mate to that TFO rod, color even matches. or Mitchell 400 or 308, or all the one's in Joe's book, Orvis 50a, Alcedo Micron, Cargem Mignon 33 But I recently handled a 30$ Lew's reel,(forgot model#) ported, really smooth drag, I am hesitant to buy a carbon bodied reel, because the bail ramp is part of the body and wears out fast, I want to look at the schematics on it first.
The Daiwa 500c is very popular right now, and I love mine, but it does seem too small on heavier 5 1/2 foot poles and longer rods,
If I were to make a "dream" reel, it would simply be a lightened up Penn 716z, I am actually looking into bench top milling and lathe machines to work over "hotrod" those reels, as well as the Mitchells.
I am still on the fence on taking the bail off and going "manual", I think I have a great technique for keeping the slack and loops from forming on the spool, even with 1 pound ice fishing line.

Grey Ghost, go ahead and make that Shakespeare bail-less. They are easy to replace on Ebay, and I think you will like the results. Also, most of those chrome plated parts are actually brass, and polish up real nice with a dremel. I replaced the fiber drag washers with teflon ones, and the drag is even smoother than before. Tight lines!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:53 am • # 33 
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XUL BFS . I am building a xul bfs rod on a RDP 5'8" 1wt. right now . If one would like to see the type of casting watch the enjoyfishing youtube videos from japan . It is UL BFS but has all the different casts in it . Amazing casting on some of the videos and some good fish . I would think he is using 1/8oz--3/16 oz. hard bates . good fishing to all !


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:51 am • # 34 
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 fastyacht said:
"Thanks 4 the tip on line wgt. I bought some 4lb one closeout for 2.50 at wallyworld. Will try it."

I hope that 4# line works out for you. In general when Wallyworld puts a clearance price on something that means it has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. I too have bought line from there on closeout pricing, but have found that the lighter the line the more likely it is to break before it should. Our local WalMart used to carry some flyfishing stuff, like cheap fly lines, leaders, tippets, etc. I bought a bunch of tippet on closeout. The next time I went fishing I broke off a bunch of flies on setting the hook. Threw out the old tippet and used something newer; no problem. This tippet was Scientific Anglers, not some off brand. If buying closeout line, I will usually buy something heavier than I really need to give myself a little reserve in breaking strength. Nylon monofilament lines have a significantly shorter shelf life than fluorocarbon lines.

Larry


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 12:23 pm • # 35 
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fastyacht wrote:
Thanks 4 the tip on line wgt. I bought some 4lb one closeout for 2.50 at wallyworld. Will try it.

Also, "4lb" test line is typically quite a bit stronger than the packaging states, more like 7# or 8# test, in many cases. Tight lines!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 6:06 pm • # 36 
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Knotty wrote:
Glad you mentioned the bail. I know Joe suggests bail-less reels to avoid line twist and tangles. Just to play around, I took the bail off a $20 Dick's rod/reel combo but not really sure about the proper technique for using it that way. Hopefully his book will shed some light.

The older the reel, the better. Modern reels use too much plastic and flimsy metal. The Alcedo Micron, Orvis 50A, Cargem Mignon, and Shakespeare 2200 (not the newer, heavier "II" model) are all great candidates. The 2200 is the only one that can be readily bought for less than $30, and I think it's lighter and smoother than the others. After you cut the bail off, use your Dremel and buff off all that chrome that's left, there is some beautiful brass under there. Tight lines!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:00 pm • # 37 
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hill country wrote:
Knotty wrote:
Glad you mentioned the bail. I know Joe suggests bail-less reels to avoid line twist and tangles. Just to play around, I took the bail off a $20 Dick's rod/reel combo but not really sure about the proper technique for using it that way. Hopefully his book will shed some light.

The older the reel, the better. Modern reels use too much plastic and flimsy metal. The Alcedo Micron, Orvis 50A, Cargem Mignon, and Shakespeare 2200 (not the newer, heavier "II" model) are all great candidates. The 2200 is the only one that can be readily bought for less than $30, and I think it's lighter and smoother than the others. After you cut the bail off, use your Dremel and buff off all that chrome that's left, there is some beautiful brass under there. Tight lines!


Despite mentioning earlier no real interest in older reels, I saw a Shakespeare 2200 on eBay that looked nice and ordered it for about $25 delivered. What caught my attention was that it looked like the brass was already exposed. What missed my attention was that it's a "heavier II model" which you warned against. Oh well. No biggie. It will be fun to play with.

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:07 pm • # 38 
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Hill Country, I cut the bail and left about an inch on it like Pampas Pete, very comfortable and very easy to manipulate the line off and on.
Knotty, I need to pay it forward for someone, PM me your address and I will send you a 2200, it will need to be cleaned up.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 3:05 pm • # 39 
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It's pretty dramatic, the weight and size difference in the 2200 and 2200 II. The 2200 tips the scale at about 197 grams, and the 2200 II about 235? Tight lines!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:06 am • # 40 
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Grey Ghost wrote:
Hill Country, I cut the bail and left about an inch on it like Pampas Pete, very comfortable and very easy to manipulate the line off and on.
Knotty, I need to pay it forward for someone, PM me your address and I will send you a 2200, it will need to be cleaned up.

Thanks Grey Ghost. That’s very generous of you. This is like getting another Christmas present.


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