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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 4:53 pm • # 41 
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Joined: 09/28/16
Posts: 77
Canoeman1947 wrote:
 fastyacht said:
"Thanks 4 the tip on line wgt. I bought some 4lb one closeout for 2.50 at wallyworld. Will try it."

I hope that 4# line works out for you. In general when Wallyworld puts a clearance price on something that means it has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. I too have bought line from there on closeout pricing, but have found that the lighter the line the more likely it is to break before it should. Our local WalMart used to carry some flyfishing stuff, like cheap fly lines, leaders, tippets, etc. I bought a bunch of tippet on closeout. The next time I went fishing I broke off a bunch of flies on setting the hook. Threw out the old tippet and used something newer; no problem. This tippet was Scientific Anglers, not some off brand. If buying closeout line, I will usually buy something heavier than I really need to give myself a little reserve in breaking strength. Nylon monofilament lines have a significantly shorter shelf life than fluorocarbon lines.

Larry


Good points. I have noticed some but not other Walmarts carry flyfishing gear. I bought some Japanese made Cortland leaders -- > they were good. The Chinese made ones of the same level were absolute junk. I guess Cortland is Chinesifying.

I have had some luck with 30 year old leaders---and others have simply cracked off at the slightest attempt to tie on a fly. The brand new tippet/leader definitely feels better.

The fluorocarbon thing--interesting. I bought a spool of 10lb strem fluoro for $2.50. No use for it--yet. Haha.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2019 12:26 pm • # 42 
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Joined: 05/31/17
Posts: 38
Location: New York City
JB in SC wrote:
The Troutist Area Meister #3 is probably breaking around #4 (at least that's my guess)


The Troutist Area Meister #3 is IGFA line class 1.5kg, which would put the breaking strength at 3.3lb or less.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:21 pm • # 43 
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Joined: 11/12/17
Posts: 19
PampasPete wrote:
JimRed wrote:
Knotty wrote:
Glad you mentioned the bail. I know Joe suggests bail-less reels to avoid line twist and tangles. Just to play around, I took the bail off a $20 Dick's rod/reel combo but not really sure about the proper technique for using it that way. Hopefully his book will shed some light.

Knotty, with the bail attached to the reel, cut the bail off at the reel pickup. Then remove the screw that attaches the other end of the bail to the reel housing. What you have left of the bail assembly is just the pick up.

I think the casting is self explanatory once you've gone this far.

Not only will you not have line twist, you will also experience silence in your casting; silence should be a real plus on those small streams you've posted pictures of. Makes for more enjoyable
fishing too without that bail flipping noise.


Personally, I have used a Mitchell 308 for years with the bail cut back to maybe one inch from the line guide. Yes, it is silent, except for keeping the anti-reverse engaged. One more plus is that with a little practice you can "feather" the line toward the end of your cast and bring the lure down on the water quite lightly, put your fingertip against the rim of the spool, bring the line back and start reeling. That can also keep the lure from sinking much before starting your retrieve, a real plus in shallow water.

The one thing I don't understand is how that could prevent line twist. The line still makes a 90-degree turn as it goes around the line guide and then goes onto the spool in the same direction.

What really seems to cause line twist is the position in which the line spool is held when initially winding line onto the reel spool. That takes a bit of experimenting to get right, at least for me. But for sure, the line spool needs to be kept from revolving during that operation, and should instead be held stationary so that the line comes freely off one end of the line spool


This last paragraph is absolutely incorrect. Check out any professional fishing shop. The filler spool and the reel spool are both "in-line" and spinning, helping minimize line twist. Every time the "line comes freely off the end of the line spool" it is adding a twist. Don't believe me? Take a spool of thin, flat ribbon and perform that same move - twist every time. Tight lines.
Brett


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