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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 7:45 am • # 1 
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I am working on a 2wt with a sliding band cork seat now. I have seen reels on these types of seats where the bands slide far up the reel feet and the end of the feet stick out on the other side of the bands..is this the proper way for a reel to fit on these? I have never used one. Mine right now the top band has to be snuggly pushed up the reel foot and it ends up with a crooked band. I guess my question is should the bands be straight when a reel is secured on a sliding band seat?
Janus


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 7:55 am • # 2 
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Janus, the bands will probably be crooked no matter what you do. As long as the reel fits snug on the seat you should be fine. One way to overcome the extreme crookedness though would be to mortise the cork. I'm not sure if you will want to remove much material from the seat though. If you remove too much then no reel is going to fit snug.

J.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:29 am • # 3 
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OK I'm good then. It's snug I shaved about a 1/8" flat spot the length of the reel feet to help it out a bit. It also helps me line up the reel.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:34 am • # 4 
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That flat spot will keep the reel from twisting around the seat too. I plan to buy a couple of those grip/seat combo's, they seem like one heck of a good bang for the buck.

J.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:40 am • # 5 
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Sliding bands are lighter than a DL or UL screw and cap seat. I would use a superlight reel on a short rod with that style of seat, but other than that, it sounds like you all figured it out!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:46 am • # 6 
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Janus had the right idea by putting a cork seat on his 6'6" rod. Those little rods need all the balance help they can get. Keeping the butt section as light as possible will help when trying to balance a reel.

J.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:08 am • # 7 
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Right got it from Jannsnetcraft here in Ohio. Great deal.
http://www.jannsnetcraft....le-kits/025073400007.aspx
Janus


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:06 pm • # 8 
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That piece is ideal for a little UL rod! Thanks for linking that one Janus!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:51 pm • # 9 
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I use a mortised end-ring on the grip and just one sliding band. The band on mine will look crooked because of the taper in the foot of the reel. It fits very snugly though--I can fish all day without the reel coming loose. This also allows me to get the reel as far forward as possible to help balance the rod. I turn my own grips and cork reel-seats because I can pick and choose the nicer cork rings. You can buy a single mortised ring to put at the end of your grip before you turn it. I added a single mesquite ring to the reel-seat, close to front, to prevent the cork from flattening near the mortise.

The lower rod in this pic is a Sage 6'9" LightLine in a 4 weight. You can see how crooked the band looks. The finished rod only weighs 1 3/4 oz so I pretend like it's an UL Image. The upper rod is a Sage 7'9" LightLine in a 2 weight. Because it's a longer rod and is easier to balance the reel, I just used a regular reel-seat. It weighs 2 1/4 oz.

Image
janus73 wrote:
Mine right now the top band has to be snuggly pushed up the reel foot and it ends up with a crooked band. I guess my question is should the bands be straight when a reel is secured on a sliding band seat?
Janus


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:56 pm • # 10 
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jdub, I'm glad you joined us. Your rods look great, If you'd like, you could showcase your builds in the rod building section.

Jeremy


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:23 pm • # 11 
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jkurtz7 wrote:
jdub, I'm glad you joined us. Your rods look great, If you'd like, you could showcase your builds in the rod building section.

Jeremy

Thanks for the welcome and the kind words. It's nice to find a forum geared to UL where you won't have to continuously listen to the "anything smaller than a 4 weight kills fish" rant, that seems to happen on other sites anytime anyone dares to mention a 0-2wt. Image

Other than the custom-turned grips, the rods I've built are actually pretty plain--single color wraps, etc. Putting them together myself just happens to be the only way I can afford nice rods Image I got both of the Sage LightLine blanks for just over $100 each, when a custom rod-builder in Austin was selling off his stock.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:36 pm • # 12 
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jdub, the whole "anything smaller than a 4 weight kills fish" is one of the reasons that Andy and I created this site. We were sick of that same rhetoric too. We wanted a site where folks like us could come together and talk about UL rods, and fishing. There are plenty of folks like myself that fish for panfish 98% of the time, and I don't need a rod heavier than a 3wt. There are also plenty of small stream trout fishermen that don't need a rod heavier than a 3.
As for your rods being plain, so are mine. I don't build anything fancy at all. I kind of model my builds off the older Orvis model, which is to say single color wraps and simple yet elegant reel seats and cork. I too build so that I can better afford rods. Factory built rods are pricey.

Jeremy


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:57 pm • # 13 
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jkurtz7 wrote:
jdub, the whole "anything smaller than a 4 weight kills fish" is one of the reasons that Andy and I created this site. We were sick of that same rhetoric too. We wanted a site where folks like us could come together and talk about UL rods, and fishing. There are plenty of folks like myself that fish for panfish 98% of the time, and I don't need a rod heavier than a 3wt. There are also plenty of small stream trout fishermen that don't need a rod heavier than a 3.
As for your rods being plain, so are mine. I don't build anything fancy at all. I kind of model my builds off the older Orvis model, which is to say single color wraps and simple yet elegant reel seats and cork. I too build so that I can better afford rods. Factory built rods are pricey.

Jeremy


This is why I plan on learning to build! I want a Sage 0wt, but for less than $450, the only way to afford it is to build it on my own. I will have to buy a blank, sliding band seat, and REC guides...

I hate that party line crap that people spew. J and I spent days on other sites fighting back!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 1:43 pm • # 14 
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"Crooked" rings are the result of tilting the rings to ride up the tapered feet of the reel. This results in incomplete contact with the reel feet and the cork, and will either dig into the cork or slip when you least expect it. There are rings available that are themselves tapered, so they sit flat to both the cork and reel feet. This results in less damage to both the cork and the feet, and rarely slips. Best results will still be realized with either mortised or flattened cork, which can be done with sandpaper and popsicle sticks, if you don't have a fancy shop.

In nickel silver, the best rings I've found are the ones that Struble uses on the D-27/U-27 reel seats. Anglers Workshop can get them and they aren't terribly expensive. In aluminum, I really like the wider Orvis rings (still only 3/16 inch or so wide). These were used on the last generation Superfine rods like the "Tippet," but not the "One Ounce" rods, which use(d) a thinner ring that digs in to the cork. The Orvis rod making shop has both styles of ring for very little $$, as well as the really old knurled stainless steel rings that came on bamboo and early graphite rods--these look cool, but are really awful for digging into both aluminum reel feet and cork. If you must try the SS rings, pmessage or email me and I'll find the few I have left to sell you, cheap.
-CC


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 2:23 pm • # 15 
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CC, as usual good advice. I might add that your first step is to look at the bottom of your reel foot. Is it curved? If so, the best fit is a corresponding curve on the reel seat. Ideally, a flush fit. A mortise works because of the radius formed, not merely because it is flattened. Most reel seats have a greater curve than that on the reel foot. Slicing a flat spot Orvis style makes no sense, really. The foot is not flat. Search around until you get rings the diameter you want. You want them to just barely slide along the reel seat. You may be able to turn the seat down to the same curve as the reel foot. The rings cant as they go up the foot because of the slope of the foot and may not have been the correct size to begin with. A taper inside the ring compensates for this and is available on some rings.

Now here is some advice. Wet sand the cork reel seat with varnish and it is less likely to dent or chip. A wider band spaces out the pressure and with the varnished seat, you get minimal denting. Be sure to dismount the reel at the end of the day and the seat will recover by in large.

One more secret from the vault. Try the Kork-a-lon foam grips used for ice rods from Jann's. You can turn a seat into one end, add rings, and voila. The foam is much more forgiving than cork. Don

I will get Robin to take some pix some time in the future. Don


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:14 pm • # 16 
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Wow, I am so over my head on rod building here but goodness...that is some amazing advice!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:27 pm • # 17 
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Andy, just buy the book already.

J.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:48 pm • # 18 
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You got me. I need to track down a copy of it and read all I can before I start shopping for components!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:55 pm • # 19 
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I linked to Amazon for that book in the rod building section.

J.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 7:10 pm • # 20 
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Thanks J. I may have to jump on that one, when funds are abundant, of course...


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