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 Post subject: 10'2wt Sage ESN build
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:38 pm • # 1 
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Joined: 01/13/15
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Hello all,
I am pretty new to the forum and also rod building but I wanted to share my build and get some options. I built this rod about 9 months ago and love it. Sure looking back there are a few things I would change but it is super sensitive and deadly accurate!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:34 am • # 2 
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Joined: 09/12/13
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Location: Webb City, MO
pretty rod and sizeable fish


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:50 am • # 3 
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Location: Williamsburg, Virginia
That is a nice build you have.


Dan


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:19 pm • # 4 
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Thanks guys. A couple of things I would change and would love to hear some suggestions on are, guides and reel seats. I usedan a Jan's net craft reel seat and it nice but for my next build I would like something down locking and lighter. I used fugi ceramic single foot guides and they are sweet for a casting rod but this really isn't a long distance cast stick. So does anyone have any input on suggestions on guides or reel seats? I am trying to loss as much weight from the rod as possible and would also like to go with a down locker so I can get away with a lighter smaller reel possible. Thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:21 pm • # 5 
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Thanks guys. A couple of things I would change and would love to hear some suggestions on are, guides and reel seats. I used a Jan's net craft reel seat and it nice but for my next build I would like something down locking and lighter. I used fugi ceramic single foot guides and they are sweet for a casting rod but this really isn't a long distance cast stick. So does anyone have any input on suggestions on guides or reel seats? I am trying to loss as much weight from the rod as possible and would also like to go with a down locker so I can get away with a lighter smaller reel possible. Thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 2:26 pm • # 6 
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If you want to go lighter, I like the Lemke GS-1 available here:
http://www.southwestcustomrods.com/inde ... t-hardware
This would be especially light if you used cork instead of wood for the insert (you'd have to make it yourself). Really any of the Lemke hardware is very light because it's all aluminum regardless of the finish.

I question whether you really need to go light though on a 10' rod. Even though it's a 2wt, you need a fair amount of weight to balance that long rod. Unless you're talking about a shorter rod for your next build.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 2:38 pm • # 7 
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Location: Southern NH
tiptop wrote:
I question whether you really need to go light though on a 10' rod. Even though it's a 2wt, you need a fair amount of weight to balance that long rod. Unless you're talking about a shorter rod for your next build.
I have that rod.

I agree that making it too light in the butt end may make it feel really tip heavy. Tip heavy on a nymphing rod will get really tiring over the course of a day.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:11 pm • # 8 
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Well maybe I didn't explain well. My hopes and thoughts would be to move from the up lock to a down lock to help with the fulcrum point of the balance. I know there isn't much of a difference between this point I am talking about but if I can shave a few grams I know my shoulder would appreciate it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:56 pm • # 9 
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Are you talking about changing the seat this rod? Or another 10' rod? If so, before changing anything permanently, you can experiment by taping your reel in the rear position, as if it were downlocking, and do some test casting or even fishing and see if it makes a noticeable difference. Use electricians tape or the blue 3M masking tape - both will come off easily without leaving a residue. The reel might sit unevenly but it won't matter for a test - or you could temporarily shim it out with cardboard or similar.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:24 pm • # 10 
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I was referring to future builds.


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