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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 2:38 pm • # 1 
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Location: Italy
For the hardware you need:
1) a piece of tube, IMHO 22cm out, 20 in. You can choose it in brass, copper, carbon, plastic or what you like. My preferred is in aluminium because it's easy to find, cheap, very light, nice. And you can find it even colored.
2) a tube cutter (from 4 euros) tu cut perfect rings (like this http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB11Wz9NFXX ... m-22mm.jpg );
3) a small metal file, to avoid that the ring cut your fingers or the line
Image;
4) sand paper 1000 for metal, if you like the matt aluminium.

The cork insert
To do it I copied the procedure here (http://www.pipam.it/index.php?option=co ... &Itemid=94) But anyway it's easy to do if you have a drill, threaded rod, some nuts and washer, corks (even bottle corks), wooden files and wooden sand paper.

You can make it 80mm long and 19,5cm diameter. The flat part can be made with a file and sand paper and must be a little larger that the foot of the reel.
This is the result:
Image

Image

3 different solutions:

A) the Orvis style reel seat.
I cut 2 rings 7 mm large, exactly like the rings on my Ultrafine Orvis 792.
The result:
Image

Image

Image

Image

B) Downlocking retainer

Instead of cut 2 rings 7mm you cut one 7mm and the other 15mm and you glue the 15mm at the end of the reel seat. Then you glue a metal circle in the back to finish it. Or you use simply a coin. In this examples I used 2 different coins on a 7mm ring to show how it can look: an italma (magnesium-aluminium very light alloy) 5 lire and 5 euro cents.
Image

Image

C) Uplocking retainer

Take a look here: there I used 20mm out and 18mm in (because the rod butt was smaller).
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=7738&hilit=uplocking


What is better? A, B or C?
IMHO
Depends, for me there is not "a winner":
- the B solution maybe is better if the rod is longer and heavier for the balancement, the reel is solid and doesn't move at all;
- the C solution is better with lighter and shorter rods, the reel is solid and doesn't move at all, but the reel is really close to your hand and could be annoying;
- the A solution is a compromise between B and C and you can move a little the reel more close to the hand or more close to the back, but the reel is less solid like in the other 2 solutions.

All the 3 solutions are equally light, very light, pretty easy to make and really cheaps.
Enjoy
Roberto


Last edited by zigo on Wed Feb 15, 2017 1:16 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:59 pm • # 2 
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nicely done.

Les


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:15 pm • # 3 
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Location: Coppell, TX
Thanks Zigo for providing detailed information, enjoyable post.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 12:17 pm • # 4 
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Great post!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 5:55 am • # 5 
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Joined: 01/19/12
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Location: Italy
Thankyou very much for who appreciated :)

Here an example of a copper downlocking retainer

On the last rod I built I tried firstly an orvis style aluminium rings reel seat. (the pic above).
But since it is a fiberglass rod, not a carbon, I felt it unbalanced: it was too heavy in the tip.
I looked for a good balancement for me using the cents that I use for common cents measures and I found that it was correct a combination reel+ reel seat about 150 grams.
I weighed my heavier UL reel (about 120 grams with the line) then I decided to try a copper downolcking retainer.
And I found a "closing" for hydraulic copper pipes 22mm inside, price 0,65 euros
Image

and a pack of 10 sleeves for hydraulic copper pipes 22 mm inside, 33 mm long (2,95 euros)
Image

I cut the sleeve to make a 10mm ring and I worked it and the closing with file and sandpaper
Image

I made a new cork seat and this is the result: 28,9 grams, pretty perfect for my purpose. Cheap, easy to make and even nice (IMHO)
Image

instead of about 9 grams of the orvis style aluminium, very good for an UL carbon rod, but too light for a fiber
Image

roberto

p.s.
A trick: to fix the reel seat I pose paper tape on the butt (or I work a little the surface of the blank with sand paper if the reel seat hole is too perfect) and I use PVA glue. The reel seat is perfectly fixed but in case I need remove it, for example because I want change it (as in this case) or because I broke it, it's sufficient dip it in boiling water a few seconds that the pva glue melts and is possible remove it leaving the rod pretty perfect. Anyway it's a "delicate" operation: once I forced too much the rod, who was in carbon very high module and really thin, turning the reel seat. Probably the glue was not perfectly melt and even the high temperature didn't help and I broke the last 80/90mm of the blank. Then careful if the rod is delicate.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 10:19 am • # 6 
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Joined: 08/29/17
Posts: 3
very nice.. functional and good looking. which glass blank did you build on?
you can achieve a bright polished look by polishing the hardware with a polishing compound. i use Flitz.


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