It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 6:17 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Go to page 1, 2  Next   Page 1 of 2   [ 26 posts ] New Topic Add Reply
Author Message
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 8:43 pm • # 1 
User avatar
Hero Member

Joined: 11/20/08
Posts: 594
Ok guys....

I've gotten the go-ahead to start on another project from the home General.....

I've decided on the Dan Craft Sig III 6'10 1wt.

Now to decide on components......

The blank is flat black I think, so what I've got in mind is a "stealth" sort of approach. I'm thinking black or at least Ti or smoke colored guides and a black stripper......and dark colored reel seat hardware with a dark wood insert turned by me. I've started learning how to use a wood lathe at the crafts shop on Ft Campbell and plan on turning a seat insert myself. I know a sliding band seat might be more appropriate given the rod weight, but I just am not partial to the way they look. I want to use single foot guides......for lightness, looks and ease of wrapping (only have to wrap one side!) with dark or see through wraps (no CP).

So........questions......

1. What's the appropriate size stripping guide and single foots for a 1 wt? Any ideas on guide spacing? Opinions of favorite brand of stripper?

2. Favorite light aluminum downlocking seat?

3. Ideas on thread color?

Thanks,

David


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:35 pm • # 2 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 4828
David, that's great man. I'd use a Struble D25 since you want a wood insert, and it's a round body insert so you don't have to mess with a mortise. It's nickle silver though. As for guides, keep them small 2/0 or 1/0 then step up at the end to a 6mm stripper. As for spacing, you can download the spacing calc. from the Rob building forum. It's a neat tool. Just a heads up though, when it's set for single foot, it gives you the sizes for the ceramic singles. I just leave it set on the snake setting, it gives the wire guide sizes.
As for favorite strippers, I don't really have any I guess. I've used the cheap Pac bay strippers, but I doubt I'll use them again. I have a Hopkins and Holloway stripper, and it's nice. I will probably use Fuji SiC strippers from now on though. They are good quality.

Thread? I'm a sucker for Gudebrod Candy Apple red. If it's a good match for the blank, that is what I'll use nine times out of ten now. I use Permagloss for wrap finish and it turns the CA thread somewhat transparent, it looks really cool on a black blank. Just about any color will go good on a black or charcoal grey blank.

I can't wait to see this one when it's done. Maybe you could start a thread on this and give us some pics and updates as you go? That would be sweet.

J.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:36 pm • # 3 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/18/08
Posts: 3185
Location: Texas
armyflyfisher wrote:
...and dark colored reel seat hardware with a dark wood insert turned by me. I've started learning how to use a wood lathe at the crafts shop on Ft Campbell and plan on turning a seat insert myself.
Hi David, I'm not going to try to answer any of your questions, but I think it's cool you'll be turning your own reel seat insert. Woodturning is another hobby of mine and it comes in handy while building rods.

My wife gave me this blank for our 17th anniversary in 1998 (date is on the rod). We were staying at a cabin on the Frio River in the Hill Country at the time. I grabbed a piece of mesquite from a tree the owner of the cabin had just trimmed and brought it home and turned the reel seat insert, butt, and the winding check out of it (I turned the grip too, but had to *buy* the cork Image ). Cool way to personalize your new fly rod.

Jerry

Image


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 6:01 am • # 4 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 4828
David, I just looked at Mudhole, and they don't have the Struble D25 with the blued hardware. It's a nice seat though, it's scaled down for 1-3wt rods.
REC has the ADSL, it's supposed to be scaled down somewhat from the ADS that I used on my Lami. The website says that both seats have the same O.D.,
but if you look at the uplocking version of these, there is a difference. The ADSL is available in black Aluminum. It uses a mortised insert though. Not sure if your willing to do a mortise on your turned insert.
Other than the Struble D25, I am unaware of a threaded downlocking seat that is truly scaled down to small rods. No one that I know of carries the blued D25. You would have to find a Struble dealer that would be willing to order the Blued D25 skeleton for you.
http://www.strublemfg.com/product/29/
http://www.reelseats.com/...6b033e65c7d01cd8f9de63aa5 (this is REC)

Sorry I can't be of more help here.

J.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 6:03 am • # 5 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 4828
jdub wrote:
armyflyfisher wrote:
...and dark colored reel seat hardware with a dark wood insert turned by me. I've started learning how to use a wood lathe at the crafts shop on Ft Campbell and plan on turning a seat insert myself.
Hi David, I'm not going to try to answer any of your questions, but I think it's cool you'll be turning your own reel seat insert. Woodturning is another hobby of mine and it comes in handy while building rods.

My wife gave me this blank for our 17th anniversary in 1998 (date is on the rod). We were staying at a cabin on the Frio River in the Hill Country at the time. I grabbed a piece of mesquite from a tree the owner of the cabin had just trimmed and brought it home and turned the reel seat insert, butt, and the winding check out of it (I turned the grip too, but had to *buy* the cork Image ). Cool way to personalize your new fly rod.

Jerry

Image
Jerry that is one sweet looking rod, I really like that Mesquite.

J.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 6:10 am • # 6 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 5497
Jerry,
I never thought of using mesquite for a reel seat much less furniture- it looks cool. The next time I fire up the grille for cooking I'll be thinking fishing. ;)


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 6:29 am • # 7 
User avatar
Full Member

Joined: 11/18/08
Posts: 245
David,
Another option for black hardware is a Struble D3. You can buy the skeleton from H&H

http://shop4.mailordercen.../hookhack/searchprods.asp

Jerry,
Beautiful work man! What a fantastic idea using something from a special trip in your rod building. Lots of reasons we build rods, that's another one for the list. Nice job.

Doug


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:59 am • # 8 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/18/08
Posts: 3185
Location: Texas
Thanks J, Les, and Andy. Mesquite really is a pretty wood.

David, Here are a couple of examples of guide/thread options. The top is a stock TFO Pro with a flat black blank, black wraps, and regulars snakes--I like the understated look. The second one is another piece of the rod with the mesquite reel seat insert. Very dark brown blank, with Sage green wraps and black Fuji ceramic guides (all the guides are black ceramic Fuji's--not just the stripper). The ceramic insert on the guides is gray though--not black.

I used a flash for the pic, so the dark brown blank and green wraps show up lighter than normal. Like someone else already mentioned, you can get away with just about any color wraps on a black rod. Maybe you should turn your reel seat insert and then try to match the thread color to the insert.

Jerry

Image


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:07 am • # 9 
User avatar
Hero Member

Joined: 12/22/11
Posts: 1602
I am a fan of understated blanks, and you have accomplished that on your brown rod. Mesquite is not just for grilling!


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:18 am • # 10 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 4828
Jerry, I have a set of Fuji ceramics sitting here waiting to be put on my next project, what ever that may be. I think I'm really going to like them, they sit well on the blank since the underside of the foot is concave. You never have to worry about line grooved guides with these either. They really are nice high quality guides.

David, the Fuji single foot fly guides may be a good option for you. I was just digging through my rod building box earlier today, and I looked at those Fuji's again. The smallest size, 5.5, is roughly the same O.D. as the Pac Bay 1/0 single foot wire guides I have, they are small enough for a UL rod. Jerry is right about thread color, try to match it up with your reel seat insert.

J.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:23 am • # 11 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/18/08
Posts: 3185
Location: Texas
jkurtz7 wrote:
Jerry, I have a set of Fuji ceramics sitting here waiting to be put on my next project, what ever that may be. I think I'm really going to like them, they sit well on the blank since the underside of the foot is concave. You never have to worry about line grooved guides with these either. They really are nice high quality guides.
They are really nice guides and curved underside makes them sooo much easier to wrap--especially the small ones near the tip--but now I'm curious about the weight. Do you have a scale you can weight a set of these Fuji's on and compare them to a set of regular snakes or single-foot snakes?


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:32 am • # 12 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 4828
Jerry, no I don't have any way of weighing them. I had my 2wt out though and in comparison to the chrome 1/0 snakes I have up by the tip, I'd think that the Fuji's would weigh pretty close to those. The Fuji's I have are the Hardloy, and they have stainless frames. The frames seem to have less steel then the snakes, and the ceramic can't weigh much at all.

J.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:40 am • # 13 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 4828
Jerry, I found this post over on Clark's bamboo forum. In the first post, last paragraph, you will see that he did weigh a Fuji.
http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?&t=11861

J.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:11 am • # 14 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/18/08
Posts: 3185
Location: Texas
jkurtz7 wrote:
Jerry, I found this post over on Clark's bamboo forum. In the first post, last paragraph, you will see that he did weigh a Fuji.
http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?&t=11861
Thanks for the link! Looks like my weight concerns weren't justified at all--1/250 of an ounce *savings* over the entire rod Image. And then you can also add in the weight savings you get with a single-foot wrap and coating versus regular snakes with two wraps each.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:20 am • # 15 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 4828
I guess guide weight is just one less thing we have to obsess over. Image I obsess over rod action and line weight enough to have to worry about guides too. I do think that one can probably get better performance from the ceramics, as in shooting line further due to less friction over that of wire guides.

J.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:32 am • # 16 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/18/08
Posts: 3185
Location: Texas
jkurtz7 wrote:
I do think that one can probably get better performance from the ceramics, as in shooting line further due to less friction over that of wire guides.

Yeah, I would have to agree. I've noticed on one of my LL rods with regular guides, the wet line tends to cling to the blank a bit where it goes through the guides. Don't see that at all with the Fuji's where the line is held out from the rod just a bit.

Here's one more thing to obsess over though Image. This is from Tom Morgan--the custom rod builder:

"One aspect of our rod design that makes them different from most other rods currently on the market is the snake guide size. If you compare our rods to others the guides seem small, and you might think, too small to let the line pass through easily. The common misconception is that the bigger the guides the better the line flows through them and the farther you can cast. I have wrapped and cast identical rods with small guides and large guides and found just the opposite to be true. Apparently, the larger guides allow the line to slap around the rod too much and actually reduce the shooting ability of the line. Another aspect often overlooked, particularly on rods like ours with delicate and supple tips, is that the larger guides weight the tip of the rods excessively and entirely destroy their subtle action. Trust me, our guides are of adequate size; the smaller, lighter guides are one of the things that make our rods feel so great.
"

Here's the link Guide Size (4th paragraph down).


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:41 am • # 17 
User avatar
Hero Member

Joined: 11/19/08
Posts: 1172
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Because single-foot guides need a full-length wrap for security, and you can easily shorten the feet on snakes to about half that length (or use Snake Brand guides, which already have very short feet), it's entirely possible to have snakes with shorter overall wraps (even doubled) than most single-foot guides. Personally, I do a lot of small stream fishing (tangled, overgrown small streams), and I like the idea that my snake guides won't rip out from being caught on brush, or crack from being rapped on rocks. I doubt I shoot enough line on UL rods to notice the difference between snakes and ceramics, if there is one--I remember hearing that tournament casters typically use snake guides--there must be a reason for that. Where ceramics would shine would be with heavier gear and long running fish.
-CC


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:44 am • # 18 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/17/08
Posts: 4828
Yeah, I tend to prefer smaller guides than many other folks do.

J.


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:00 pm • # 19 
User avatar
Administrator

Joined: 11/18/08
Posts: 3185
Location: Texas
cross creek one wrote:
Because single-foot guides need a full-length wrap for security, and you can easily shorten the feet on snakes to about half that length (or use Snake Brand guides, which already have very short feet), it's entirely possible to have snakes with shorter overall wraps (even doubled) than most single-foot guides... if there is one--

I remember hearing that tournament casters typically use snake guides--there must be a reason for that. Where ceramics would shine would be with heavier gear and long running fish.
-CC
Ha! You're certainly right about the length of the wraps--thanks for pointing that out. I'll have to admit that one of my motivations for the single-feet guides is fewer wraps to put on and coat--even if they are a little longer.

As for casting difference--I doubt I could tell the diff between ceramic and non-ceramic, and I have yet to wear out a set of regular snakes although I'm really trying Image. I put the Fuji's on my "anniversary rod" because I was trying to make it as nice as I could and I think they look great, and they work great too.

The only time I see line clinging to my LL is when it's wet. I guess a tournament caster wouldn't have to worry about that, but I'm sure they've studied the dynamics enough to have better reasons for choosing snakes.

I appreciate the points you raised!

Jerry


Top
  
 Post subject: Dan Craft 6'10 1wt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:02 pm • # 20 
User avatar
Hero Member

Joined: 11/20/08
Posts: 594
I have heard about locking wraps on single foot guides.....I've talked with guys that do them routinely and guys that have never done them....When I built my Lamiglass 7'6 4wt I used single foot Recoils without a locking wrap......and I've not had any problems....maybe I'm just lucky.

I used size 2 Recoil single foots on my 4wt.....I'm thinking straight size 2's all the way down the blank on the 1wt - again just like on my Lami. Size 2 should work???? I really like the recoils. They're a little pricey, but the feet are pre-ground, they're light and I appreciate they're flexibillity. I was looking at some sort of ringed guide like SiC or maybe a Hardloy from Fuji. But I'm not sure with the casting distances that I plan on fishing with the 1wt that I would notice any advantage with ceramic guides vs. just a nice plain hard wire guide.

For the stripper.....I'd like to splurge and get a titanium framed guide either from American Tackle or Fuji. I like the Ti frame with silicon carbide stripper from Fuji (TLNSG) in the Mudhole catalog. Size 6 or 7?

So....single foots size 2 and stripper size 7?

It's in the high 20's here today......so I've been at a few rod building sites looking at rods and grips....getting inspiration! I think a custom grip is in order too!

David


Top
  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  

Go to page 1, 2  Next   Page 1 of 2   [ 26 posts ] New Topic Add Reply

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  


- OurBoard Support -