I think I already told you, can't remember now, but I used permagloss on the Pac Bay. While it isn't the most self leveling thing out there, it sure is durable. I won't use Gudebrod rod Varnish anymore because every rod I've used it on, it cracked at the guide feet. I haven't used epoxy yet and kind of don't really like the idea of the stuff. I've not tried spar varnish either so I can't comment on that.

J.

I use Flex-Coat Lite. I am very satisfied with the results. It levels well on the wraps and I have had no problems with cracking or lifting. For the first coat, I thin it 50% with denatured alcohol and apply it with a bodkin. This prevents bubbles around the guide feet. If I need to use a color preserver, I use 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic and then 2 coats of unthinned FC lite. I think the trick to a good finish is multiple thin coats instead of 1 or 2 heavy coats.

Doug

Epoxy can be too thick to get a thin coat. The best way that I have found to prevent this is to heat the bottles in a hot water bath. I set both bottles, resin and hardener, into a bowl of hot water for 3-5 minutes before mixing in a plastic mixing container. I measure each part with a syringe and dispense them into the container. After mixing, I float the container in the hot water for a minute or two before applying to the wraps. Work quickly and apply a thin coat to the wrap. After application, I pass a flame from a butane lighter about 6" under the wrap as I rotate the rod slowly. Do not get the flame too close or turn the rod too slow. This will thin the epoxy even more and allow it to flow and level out better. This process also removes any air bubbles that might happen. Don't give in to the temptation of adding more epoxy for a faster buildup, several thin coats work better. This sounds difficult but it is really very easy. Just make sure all of your prep work is done before starting the finish application.

Doug

Thanks for the ideas i used flexcoat on my first rod and it was too heavy for me. I have use Gudebrod one part rod finish on the rest and have been happy. It goes on like water and takes about 6 coats to get it where I like it. But I am building a rod now and wanted to try something different. I have no ventilation where I build so the heavy varnishes might make me pass out...

Miniwax makes a wipe-on polyurethane that works well. I might suggest that you apply your finish with a plastic artist's spatula, one with a narrow tip. This way you can wipe off the tip with a coffee filter (no fibers) when you have too much on. You should never have to wipe off finish with anything other than the tip of the spatula. Put on the finish and roll the blank upside down (guide down). The excess will start to form a drop. Touch the dry tip of the spatula to the drop and off it comes. With practice, you can take that drop and begin the next guide. Arm-R-Seal and the Miniwax have very little odor. The thinned varnishes and thinned epoxies smell of the solvents. Arm-R-Seal dries very fast. You can put on 3 coats in a 16 hour day. I am a minimalist when it comes to finishing. No brushes, no mixing. I do not use a rod turner either. Don

J. General Arm-R-Seal is available at Woodcrafters. I like satin, but it is also available in Semi-gloss and gloss. The Miniwax wipe-on is available at Home Depot, etc. With either product I fill a small bottle from the hobby store with enough varnish to complete the project and carefully reseal the can. You can get years of use from a single can that way.

I have only seen cracking at the tabs on metal ferrules, not usually at the guides. This is merely cosmetic, as you can prep the crack with a Sally's Sand Turtle Gleemer and apply another coat of the wipe-on to reseal it. Almost invisible. If you get the Arm-R-Seal, give me a shout. Don