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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 2:00 pm • # 1 
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Joined: 03/02/11
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Location: Vinton, Va
Well, awhile back I purchased a 8' TFO BVK 3wt blank and Component Kit from Hook and Hackle. I ended up building it and getting 10' Conversion Kit as well. Ended up wanting to use the same reel on both configurations. So to allow me to do that I removed the factory fighting butt. Epoxied a 1/4" nut into the reel seat, assembled and turned the cork rings on a 1/4" carriage bolt. Just need to figure out to add just a little more weight to it to balance it perfectly. Right now it balances about 3/4" above the grip.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 11:44 pm • # 2 
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Interesting modification. I like your thinking.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 5:54 pm • # 3 
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Joined: 01/01/15
Posts: 32
Location: Williamsburg, Virginia
I have been thinking about making a switch rod out of a 3 wt BVK rod extension.
I was wondering what lines are you using or you have tried on the rod?


Dan


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 1:06 am • # 4 
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I used a rio mainstream wf3f line. Worked great for the 8' rod being a 3 1/2wt. Not so great on the 10' rod. I think a heavy 2 wt would be good on the 10' rod.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 1:43 pm • # 5 
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I've also thought about converting this rod into a two handed rod for NM/CO. It's even lighter than my lightest one. I think this rod would be a hoot on the Ark.

When you say switch, are you thinking two handed over head casts, or using sustained anchor casts?

If I'm pontificating about stuff you know, then I'm sorry for being long winded. If using for overhead casts, then I would think a 2/3 wt should be good. If sustained anchor casts, then you will need to go with a heavier line, more in the 5/6wt single hand range, so about 140 to 175 gains, depending on if you want to do scandi style (lighter) or Skagit (heavier). With a 10 ft rod, you would want that grain weight over about 20-22ft for the scandi, and I would think about 18 ft for Skagit and use poly leaders. So you will end up taking a heavier line and cutting it down. If you have a grain scale, you should be good. If not, I can recommend someone, or perhaps I can help you. I cut line up for my own trout micro-spey rods. You are welcome to contact me and we can chat before you start cutting up lines. The taper of the line. What you want to cast will also dictate the type of line that is best. I tend to fish down and across with wet flies, so the scandi head works well. If I wanted to cast T8 tips, I'd go to a Skagit line.

If you want to nymph, I would suggest starting with a 4wt line and work up or down.

Good luck and have fun,

Robert


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 10:51 pm • # 6 
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Location: Vinton, Va
My intended use is standard overhand casts and a light nymphing rod. I wanted to use the same reel and line. It was extremely tip heavy in the factory configuration. So the longer butt, carriage bolt and nut as well as epoxy solved my issue. I could probably figure it out, but never had the notion to try it with a sustained anchor type cast.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:41 am • # 7 
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Joined: 01/01/15
Posts: 32
Location: Williamsburg, Virginia
I'm thinking about using the extension with lower grip for scandi type casting with a line that is about 3 line sizes up for swinging soft hackles.

I have a couple other light switch rods. One of which is a Echo SR3. I think this rod follows true with a lot of switch rod in that it is 3 rod sizes heavier that it should be. (not a true 3 wt in my eyes) The other is a ARE 11ft 2/3 wt. I call this rod the super noodle. I have tried a few lines on it and I like the Ambush 5 the best so far. I have a few other lines that I will be trying out in the near future some time.

I like my BVK 3 wt a lot. I have caught a lot of fish on this rod. I thought it might make a true 3 wt switch rod. No Skagit for me. I have the super noodle for that.

Robert, if you build a switch rod from the extension let me know what kind of lines you find the rod likes best with your casting style.

Thanks for the feedback.
Dan


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