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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 4:08 am • # 1 
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Years ago I learned of this trick that helps to keep ferrules from sticking...wipe the male ferrule with a clean cloth and simply rub it where your nose joins your face, your natural skin oil will lubricate the ferrule. Should you have a stuck ferrule use two pieces of anti-skid rubber mat. (find it in Wal-Mart, very inexpensive)  Cut to fit the palm of your hand this will give you a super grip on both rod sections for max pulling power. Some folks believe there's good karma in dirty cork handles, you know, old fish slime, and you wouldn't want to wash off all that fish catching luck. If, like me, you're not into that, using a little liquid Soft Soap on a dish scrubber pad (Scotch Brite is what I use) will have that cork looking like new.

Frank Church
Fremont, Indiana
"tailingloops"


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 3:36 pm • # 2 
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For cleaning the rod handle you can also try alcohol on a soft cloth


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 11:12 am • # 3 
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I've heard that 'nose grease' contains salts and acids that may not be friendly for ferrules. Not saying I've ever had an issue with it, or that I've ever used 'nose grease', but I figure I'd add that, for what its worth. Myself, if i have sticking issues, I'll use a bit of parrafin.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:20 am • # 4 
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Location: Chile
bee wax also do the trick on ferrules


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:28 pm • # 5 
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Clean the cork handle with bleach then use scotch guard on the handle It will keep a lot of the grime off PatL


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:04 am • # 6 
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Location: Lorain, Ohio but can be found in fishing waters of West by God West Virginia and southern Ohio.
I use a wash clothe and and some ivory soap to gently scrub the cork. Works really good. Many soaps are to aggressive that may possibly damage the corks and finish.


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 Post subject: No to oil...
PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:28 pm • # 7 
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For those using metal ferrules - on cane or early fiberglass rods - it was discovered long ago that a clean ferrule was best. Skin oil on the ferrule will pick up microscopic grit when residing in the rod bag. That grit will score the inside of the female ferrule, making it yet more difficult to separate the ferrule.

A clean metal ferrule is best. However, if the ferrule is loose and you don't want to tap the female out of round, paraffin wax rubbed on the male ferrule will usually get you through the season.


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 12:46 pm • # 8 
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I've always had good luck on cork with a soft toothbrush and some dishwasher detergent diluted in water.


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 6:56 pm • # 9 
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Location: Canton, Ohio
Phish wrote:
I use a wash clothe and and some ivory soap to gently scrub the cork. Works really good. Many soaps are to aggressive that may possibly damage the corks and finish.


So do I & I also use a bar of Ivory Soap to swipe the ferrules. Works on graphite and metal (my old 'boo) with no damage or buildup. Nose wax, due to salt, can damage metal ferrules..tip from Jeff Wagner, bamboo rod builder.

Mike


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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 12:40 pm • # 10 
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I clean all my metal ferrules with denatured alcohol. I use Q-tips until they come out clean. Then I put some paraffin on the male part. Actually, I use paraffin on all my ferrules.

I use dish soap to clean grips. I clean really bad cork with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper under running water. I apply a couple coats of tru-oil to all my cork.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 4:13 am • # 11 
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I've started to use Resolve pet stain remover on cork. Spray and wait five minutes and rinse in warm water, while rubbing with a dish rag. Then repeat once.

This is still in testing stage and no problems yet, so not sure about how could affect finishes or varnish. But cork has been coming out pretty clean. Always chance of ridges in cork,so still testing.

Barry


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 4:13 am • # 12 
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I've started to use Resolve pet stain remover on cork. Spray and wait five minutes and rinse in warm water, while rubbing with a dish rag. Then repeat once.

This is still in testing stage and no problems yet, so not sure about how could affect finishes or varnish. But cork has been coming out pretty clean. Always chance of ridges in cork,so still testing.

Barry


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:38 am • # 13 
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I only ever use magic erasers on my handles and then seal with u40 corkseal. Results are amazing


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:02 am • # 14 
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Paraffin (candle wax) on glass or graphite ferrules, dry bar soap ( Ivory etc.) on clean NS ferrules.


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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 7:15 pm • # 15 
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Location: Northwest MO
Carnauba wax works great for ferrules as well, if you happen to have some laying around (I always have paraffin, beeswax, and carnauba as I use a melted mixture to finish my traditional knife handles on a buffer).


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 9:49 pm • # 16 
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Does anyone use, or have opinions about, the ferrule treatments U-40 Ferrule Lube from Trondak, and Graffitolin Ferrule Wax from Loon Outdoors?

For stuck ferrules, hold the rod behind your knees, parallel to the ground, with the stuck ferrules between your hands. This way you can apply greater tensional force to the ferrules than you can if you try to pull the ferrules apart while holding the rod in front of you.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:46 pm • # 17 
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Very timely post for me; had my Native Custom 3 wt stuck yesterday...first time for that rod in 16 years of use. Thanks for
the tip everyone.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 1:52 pm • # 18 
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Years ago the new Scott rods, made in San Francisco, had a pamphlet recommending candle wax very thin coating to the ferrules. I have used this method for about 35 years. No sticking at end of fishing day and never come loose on the water when casting.

Nose grease is a very old recommendation,, would never use this on any ferrules, contain salts that will corrode metal and make graphite sticky.

Regards,
FK


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