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timber
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Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:35 pm • # 21 |
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Joined: 08/24/09 Posts: 340 Location: Sylvania, Ohio
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Tailingloop
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:44 pm • # 22 |
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Joined: 02/08/10 Posts: 1651
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HOW.....do you keep from getting the hook in your hand? It looks like he was holding the line.....not the bend in the hook...........I have tried this a few times......Just didn't have a "warm&fuzzy" that I wouldn't end up with a size 12 in my finger......Don S in SC
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roadking
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 2:13 am • # 23 |
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Joined: 05/05/11 Posts: 90 Location: Lincoln, California
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I've used it a few times to get the line out where I could roll cast it. Gotta say it made me nervous. I do have a fiberglass take down bow that will fling a fishing arrow quite a ways. Come on guys, you know this eventually would rear it's ugly head. Big carp in Murtaugh Lake in Idaho are a blast.
Mike
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cebe
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:53 pm • # 24 |
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Joined: 01/21/12 Posts: 8
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if you do the cast as joe humphreys shows the fly is dangling below your hand by about a foot. Just release all the line when you make the cast and you won't come close to hooking yourself. it works pretty nice and shoots a fair amount of line.
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keebranch
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:38 pm • # 25 |
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Joined: 11/17/08 Posts: 5497
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blufloyd
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Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:06 am • # 26 |
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Joined: 09/06/11 Posts: 565
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I think I'll just writhe in pain now and vow never to do that insane thing ever. It has worked for yoga and parachuting and mountain climbing so I see no reason why it won't work on this. Ever see that video where the guy lets out 50 feet of mono on a rod then put hook point on base of thumb while buddy sets hook?
I ain't doing that either....
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Utah David
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Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:13 am • # 27 |
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Joined: 08/02/09 Posts: 734
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blufloyd wrote: I think I'll just writhe in pain now and vow never to do that insane thing ever. It has worked for yoga and parachuting and mountain climbing so I see no reason why it won't work on this. ---David
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DCG
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Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:19 am • # 28 |
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Joined: 05/16/09 Posts: 2123
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Not quite as dangerous as shooting and apple off your own head....but still dangerous.
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JB in SC
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:53 pm • # 29 |
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Joined: 10/08/09 Posts: 143
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Joe gave me some pointers on his brush casting techniques about 15 years ago. He came to my local fly shop (now sadly closed) every year or so. The "old man" has a deep understanding of small stream fishing.
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rsagebrush
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Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:39 pm • # 30 |
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Joined: 12/22/11 Posts: 39
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I have used the Bow and Arrow quite a bit over the years in really tight situations. I do not prefer it if I can avoid using it though.
-Hits are very fast so the fisher should be ready to instantly strike which sometimes is very difficult due to slack line. I think the fast hits are due to the fact that these fish generally don't get hassled much if at all.
-Fly landings are not splashy at all.
-Any rod seems to perform this cast pretty well but I don't think I would feel confidant to use my bamboos for this type of cast fearing a set.
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Cliff Hilbert
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Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:50 am • # 31 |
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Joined: 12/27/10 Posts: 2253 Location: Plano, TX
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timber
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Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:53 pm • # 32 |
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Joined: 08/24/09 Posts: 340 Location: Sylvania, Ohio
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Rasputinj
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Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:34 am • # 33 |
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Joined: 10/28/12 Posts: 42
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mike sharp wrote: i use it quite a lot when fishing my local socal micro creeks where in many places its so brushy you could never over hand cast.. so in those situations its often the only way to fish those pocket waters with such a dense canopy above your head.. i really only use it in those conditions but in that enviorment it works really well with a little practice. also i too use a longer leader as all im really doing with the bow and arrow cast is just basically leader casting... as i dont need to really get it out very far in the small creeks i use it on... as for types of rods i find that graphite works fine...most 0-2 wt rods are pretty soft anyway so for me my sage 0 wt works fine with that cast...anyway just my 2 cents.. Mike I do the same thing in quiet a few SoCal Creeks and MicroCreeks. With the lack of rain in the last year has made a lot of creeks Micro Creeks. Overgrown trees make the bow and arrow a requirement. I find my bamboo rods work quite well. I prefer the bamboo over my graphite for Bow and Arrow casting. I mostly use 2-3 weight rods in 6-8ft in length.
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timber
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Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:07 am • # 34 |
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Joined: 08/24/09 Posts: 340 Location: Sylvania, Ohio
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I would be terrified to use a bow and arrow cast with a bamboo rod. I know everyone says not to baby them and treat them pretty much like any other rod, but I think I'd have a mild heart attack while doing it.
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Rasputinj
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Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 1:37 am • # 35 |
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Joined: 10/28/12 Posts: 42
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timber wrote: I would be terrified to use a bow and arrow cast with a bamboo rod. I know everyone says not to baby them and treat them pretty much like any other rod, but I think I'd have a mild heart attack while doing it. They are tough never have had a problem
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RudeDog12
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 1:44 pm • # 36 |
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Joined: 09/12/13 Posts: 680 Location: Webb City, MO
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I've practiced a few times on my lawn, but only used on one outing where brush was thick enough to require.
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Clarkfork
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Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 1:26 am • # 37 |
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Joined: 01/02/12 Posts: 76
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I am never very comfortable doing the bow and arrow, but sometimes its the only way you're gonna get through a tunnel of brush. I occasionally get the urge to explore the tiny brush choked streams of northern Nevada that require bow and arrow skills, usually streams that max out at 14" deep and 3-4 feet wide that are packed with an impenetrable tangle of wild roses and brush. Most folks in Idaho would never even think of fishing such places, but in Nevada they qualify as blue ribbon trout streams. They are fun once or twice a year.
Getting the line in your hand after the cast and setting the hook when a fish quickly hits the fly are definitely part of the challenge. My Orvis Flea boo rod performs the best of any rod I've ever tried.
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keebranch
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Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:22 pm • # 38 |
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Joined: 11/17/08 Posts: 5497
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Clarkfork wrote: Getting the line in your hand after the cast and setting the hook when a fish quickly hits the fly are definitely part of the challenge. My Orvis Flea boo rod performs the best of any rod I've ever tried. Do you keep your free hand or fingers in contact with the line while doing this? Also what line wight do you use on your flea? I can see that a good full flexing rod would be an advantage with this cast. Les
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Clarkfork
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Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:11 pm • # 39 |
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Jr. Member |
Joined: 01/02/12 Posts: 76
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Les, my right hand is holding the rod and anchoring the fly line so the rod loads. My left hand is holding the leader just above the fly, I don't hold the fly line in my left hand. On my Orvis boo I use a DT4 which loads the rod very well for roll casts and bow and arrow casts.
The Joe Humphreys video is awesome. I had never thought of trying to wrap up the leader in your left hand and then shoot it. That's a much better alternative than having a long length of leader and fly dangling from your hand, because in my experience that leads to painful hooking of everything including the angler. I loved the fly line bow and arrow cast, that would come in handy in some places where you need to cast a bit farther.
Part of the challenge of getting control of the line and setting the hook is that you're in dense brush, with your fly line wrapping up on tree limbs and usually you're doing the bow and arrow because you don't have any head room to throw a normal cast, so you're confined in a tight space where it's difficult to make things work. If you jerk up the rod to set the hook it goes straight into the brush, so you usually have to sweep horizontally or strip strike, but there's a few seconds of fumbling after the cast to pick up the fly line with your left hand. There's only so much you can do in these situations and some of the time it's just not gonna work.
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aggieoutlaw
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Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:23 pm • # 40 |
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Joined: 09/10/12 Posts: 242
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I try to grab the hook bend between index and thumb with the point up and in front of my skin. I don't want the hook point behind any part of my body if possible. I sometime grab the fly line or leader but it can be tricky to avoid the hook. I prefer a 6'6" to 7'6" rod for B&A casts. And yes, the hook set is miserably frustrating most of the time. Getting the fly to the fish is only half the journey...
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