I fished all day yesterday (literally), and at one point I just started screwing around with different casts. Kind of "casting practice" with the possibility of catching something. During this time I was trying different single-hand spey casts, and trying to understand some of the physics behind them. The Snap-T cast (along with the Dynamic Roll / Jump Roll) brought about an idea for a "modified" roll cast, which I tried, and it (eventually) worked really well. (So does the Snap-T by the way.) This cast is probably widely used, and likely already has a name. But I haven't seen it described before, so it was "new to me" regardless. Now this may be hard to visualize from a written explanation, so please bear with me.

In the standard roll cast you cant your rod out a little, and raise the tip to a position of roughly 2 o'clock. You wait for the "D" loop to form, and then (in essence) perform a movement that is basically your standard forward cast.

For this "roll cast" variation, I changed to a "sidearm" casting position. So instead of raising the rod in a "slow" overhead movement, I give it a short quick "backwards horizontal flip" to cause a sidearmed "backcast" loop to "collapse" lightly onto the water. I end this movement with my rod tip still "down" near the water's surface, as though I was "fishing the loop", and the line is "tight" off the tip top. (Think mending) My casting arm is slightly extended in the direction of the "backcast", as it remained where it "stopped" in this initial movement. (Thinking of this as a backcast without enough "energy", so the loop only went part way and then dropped into the water may be helpful.) I found myself saying, "Place the line." every time I performed it. And that is literally what you are trying to do: Place a "loop" of line to your casting side. And since I tend to "open" my stance when casting sidearm, it feels more like I'm placing the loop "in front" of me, and extending out toward my right side (being a right-handed caster). From there I perform a movement much like I was picking line up off the water for a typical sidearm backcast, only now it will be a forward cast. Which means a slowly accelerating "pull" is in order. And just as in picking up line for a typical backcast, you do not want to "rip" the line off the water's surface. Instead allow it to fully load the rod by slowly pulling it off as you move the rod tip forward. When you have reached the point where the line has almost "lifted", and the drag of the line will be lost, finish the movement by completing your typical sidearm "forward cast" to the target. I can't stress enough how this is just like lifting line and making your typical "sidearm backcast". You are just doing it in a forward cast to the target instead. As always, 180° is a key factor in the success, so be sure your "collapsed loop" is pointing roughly 180° from your intended target. And just as the size of the "D" loop directly correlates to the distance you can roll cast in a standard roll cast. The same holds true for the size of the "collapsed loop". Too small a loop and the line isn't going anywhere. Too large a loop and you might as well have just made a normal backcast. Just put enough of a loop "on the water" to anchor the line completely for the loading movement needed. (This "loop" is really nothing more than your "D" loop laying flat on the water.) The big difference in this cast is that your rod remains "low" the entire time, and the line on the water is an "anchor" for a longer duration than in your standard roll cast.

My experience with this, showed that I needed less acceleration than with a standard roll cast (but that acceleration still needs to be smoothly applied), and therefore it required less effort. After playing with it for awhile, I was able to "roll cast" with this technique a distance equal to or greater than what I could with a standard roll cast, and the line never got much above head-high (if that).

Give it a try, and tell me what you think, as well as what applications you see using it in. In my case yesterday, I used it to help overcome some headwind by keeping the line low to the water. But I could have used it in overhead cover as well, had that need occurred. I also noted how a soft full-flexing rod makes this cast easier to feel and execute, as the rod really stores a lot of energy in the loading move. But that really isn't a surprise to me, as I've always preferred a fuller flexing rod for roll casting.

---David

i don't quite grasp what you mean,but i just found this video and it might be similar
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... ibddi-rBxM


i'll try to read your post again tonight, you've gotten me interested.

That's kind of how I pictured it - thanks for the link, Thomas.
David, thanks for the explanation. I think it's a very useful iteration of a great cast.

Looks like he has a short haul before he flips the line back out for the cast. Watch his left hand at the end of his casting stroke. He makes a quick pull before he shoots the line.

A lot of times I use a roll cast if I am fishing on the surface and bringing in my line when a fish hits. With your rod back preparing to lift the line for the next cast it is easier to throw a quick forward roll cast which puts tension on the line and hooks the fish. It is easier that trying to raise the rod that is already in an awkward position to set the hook.

Try this one.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFDPIn0L ... re=related


Jim

My problem with the video on roll casts is in the first 3/4 of the examples.

Notice how he casts very consistant Tailing Loops.

The Tailing Loops go away when the haul is added to the forward cast.

Regards,
FK

Hi David,

In my opinion they are most definitely Tailing Loops. Watch his rod hand make the forward cast, it travels in a arc (windshield wiper casting). The upper loop of the line unrolls Under the Lower loop.

Now check out Lefty Kreh at a fishing show help out with a FF having problems with tailing loops. Notice the discussion on rod hand travel in a straight line vs. arc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3U_FnbGfc0I

My fishing partner and I teach spey casting on weekends in CT. Over the past five years we have taught approx. 200 students. In the attached video URL, note the spey cast with the forward cast immediatly flowing over the top of the rod tip and never hangs or stays below the unrolling lower line loop. These videos are not very clear, we have been given some bright orange spey lines by Simon Gawesworth of Rio and I will attempt to take some additional shots with better definition.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McAkaHHl ... e=youtu.be

Additional information is on the Facebook site - New England Spey Clave

I will also make up some casting videos with single hand rods and spey casts, using bright orange lines.

We are a few weeks away from opening a web site strictly for casting education, we do not guide, sell retail or work for any flyshops. We only teach --> Spey Casting - North East. Two retired old guys giving back to the sport we have enjoyed for so many years.

Thanks for the discussion, this is how we continue to learn from each other.

Regards,
FK