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Knotty
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 Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 1:32 pm • # 1 |
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Joined: 08/27/15
Posts: 781
Location: New Jersey
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I only took up fishing just a few years ago at the age of fifty-something. First tenkara, then western fly fishing and spinning, with 95+% of my time on the fly. The tenkara mindset lead me to UL for both fly and spin but UL only created problems with spin. The problem being snagging. I don't seem to lose nearly as many flies to snags as I do lures and jigheads. I see three primary reasons.
1. The stuff we throw on spin, even UL, gets to the bottom faster than flies do.
2. Accurate ranging of the cast is harder with spin so more lures end up overshooting their target into lay downs or bushes and trees on the far bank.
3. Treble hooks! They work exceedingly well but I hate what they do to fish and how easily they snag.
As a more experienced angler now, I'm hoping snags will be less of an issue as I get back to UL spin. Even though it's different, time spent with a fly rod has taught me a lot about gauging the depth of my fly.
So, what has your experience been like with UL spin snags? Tips and tricks appreciated.
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fkrow
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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 5:20 pm • # 2 |
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Joined: 11/17/09
Posts: 180
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I like to feather the outgoing line with my rod hand forefinger,,, this prevents over shooting and into the bushes.
It also is rather important to close the reel bail with your off hand,,, this minimizes slack or loose line being wound up onto the spool,,,, next cast equals tangles. I also close the bail and then pull back on the rod tip a little to eliminate slack prior to winding the crank. Hand cranking to close the bail will throw slack into the line and gives future problems.
Snagging the bottom is by experience with the weight of the lure and line intake speed,, obviously lighter weight will sink slower but not give distance. I use braided lines for max. distance and UL rods to cast the lightest lures possible. The advantage is 4# or 5# braid is the diameter of 1# mono.
On my local trout management river, single hooks only with no barb,,, check with Chris Stewart, he now has replacement hooks for converting treble UL lures to single hook.
Weed guards help with some snagging,,, home made either mono loop or thin wire added onto hooks.
Regards,
FK
Last edited by fkrow on Fri Mar 31, 2017 7:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Grey Ghost
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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 6:32 pm • # 3 |
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Joined: 07/28/13
Posts: 262
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Forget over the counter lures, make "Flures" Fly/Lure, you can make them as light or heavy as your fishing conditions demand with lead wire. K nailed every other point!
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Knotty
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Posted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:06 pm • # 4 |
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Joined: 08/27/15
Posts: 781
Location: New Jersey
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Good stuff guys. I also just finished reading Piscatorial Absurdities and it's chock full of good advice.
Looking back, I think another contributing factor was that I mostly tried fishing Trout Magnets w/o a float. That's a 1/72 oz jighead if memory serves me right. I just didn't, and still don't, have the skill to cast and retrieve such a light lure on spinning but I hope to get there.
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JB in SC
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Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 12:53 pm • # 5 |
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Joined: 10/08/09
Posts: 143
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Knotty wrote: Looking back, I think another contributing factor was that I mostly tried fishing Trout Magnets w/o a float. That's a 1/72 oz jighead if memory serves me right. I just didn't, and still don't, have the skill to cast and retrieve such a light lure on spinning but I hope to get there. I can cast the .7 g JH-85 with 1.7" C'ultiva Pinworm (the pink is a killer for stocked trout) pretty well now that I spent some stream time with it. That's around 1/40th ounce or so. The key is finding how much weight is needed to get it deep enough without hanging up. Jig weight + retrieval speed + water speed and depth. With a jig and plastic there's nothing to slow the sink rate like an inline spinner. Just takes some practice.
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