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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 1:30 pm • # 1 
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I'm looking at adding a 6' Maxcatch 1wt to the quiver and have seen reviews wherein testers felt that a 2wt line works better than a 1wt on this rod. My intent in going to this 1wt rod is to keep things as light as possible, and I'm not overly concerned about long distances or casting #6 streamers. But still, I'd be interested in the experiences and opinions of those of you who fish one of these rods.
Thanks in advance
brent


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:06 pm • # 2 
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I have not fished this rod, but a friend has one and I have cast it. Like a lot of short carbon rods, it works better with a 2 weight than a 1 weight. Perhaps one of the short head lines for close in casts, like a Barrio Small Stream WF1 or an Orvis Hydros Superfine WF1, both of which are more of a 1.5 line weight, might work OK.

Larry


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 8:55 am • # 3 
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IMO, short and carbon can be mutually exclusive when a manufacturer attempts to creat a rod that loads deeper from the tip with 1WT or lower lines. We've seen this with the TFO half weight and others which can throw WF1 but require a lot of mini hauls to keep the line moving well through the guides. Some will even thrust the rod quickly in short quick movements to make the rod work. All this changes by moving up a line weight. I found this to be true with my TFO six foot 2wt which in reality was better with 3,4 Wt lines.


Glass as material or bamboo will perform better in lighter weights and in shorter configurations. Once you go longer to 7-9 feet then carbon regains the advantage and casts one and sub ones as well or better.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:09 am • # 4 
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Thanks, guys, for the insight and explanation. I cannot say I'm completely sure why I even want the rod, other than its mid-winter, I'm taking a break from tying, and I haven't bought a rod in two years. I love my two 3wts (7 and 7.5'), and I do have a 6' 3.5wt in fiberglass that DOES cast well (as keebranch predicts above). I'm curious to see how the 1wt would perform on my little home stream, but if I have to put a 2wt line on it to get it to perform, it kind of takes the magic out of it, I think.
Anyway, thanks for your insight, guys.
brent


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 1:31 pm • # 5 
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Brent,
The Olde English Fly Shop in Florida carries a 6' fiberglass blank that is labelled as a 2 weight for about $54. Built into a rod it works well as a 1 weight, with lines I mentioned above. Both keebranch and I have one, built by preast. It is a dandy little rod. If you can build it or know somebody who can build it for you, it would make a nice little 1 weight rod. The rod is actually a combination of materials, using unidirectional glass in the shaft with a helical graphite core.

Larry


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 1:56 pm • # 6 
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I built one of the Old English rods that Larry talks about , it's in the rod building section . Admittedly I have never fished or even cast it yet but I don't care for it just from the wiggle test . If I wanted a 1wt I would buy one of RDPs 5'8" 0wt and use a 1wt line on it . I have one and it casts a 1wt just fine .
http://www.rdpflyrods.com/blanks.html


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 4:22 pm • # 7 
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Just from my perspective I have never found a "wiggle" test to really tell me anything worthwhile about how a rod casts. The only way I can tell is with a line.

Larry


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 4:46 pm • # 8 
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Well I'm certainly not going to argue with you but I choose all my rods that I buy from a store by the wiggle test and I haven't been wrong yet . I will talk more about this rod when I have actually fished with it . A comparison of the Old English and the RDP isn't a true comparison as one is graphite and the other a glass mixture , that being said the RDP is most definitely my favorite 0 and 1wt rod .
My Aventik is my second favorite glass rod behind my Blue Halo . I bought a Moonlit Lunar 5wt from a member on the FFR and when I did the wiggle test out of the box I was skeptical and when I fished it I was right , I hated it . I bought a Blue Halo from same member and it passed the wiggle and when I fished it , it instantly became my favorite glass rod .


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 6:33 pm • # 9 
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Ah, you guys always come through! Now I can consider building an 0 fiberglass and lining up to a 1! My 6' rod is an old fenwick fiberglass blank from 35 years ago, that was alleged to be a 5 wt, but when I finished building it, I always felt I had overlined it. When I discovered the common cents method, it tested out to a 3.5. Dropped down to line sizes and now its a real pleasure to use. Thanks! Now I can do a little retail therapy AND have a project to boot! Wish our dollar wasn't so low compared to yours.
brent


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 12:53 pm • # 10 
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Here's a suggestion I use that might be of some help in determining the size of line to use for a target fly rod. Take a larger wt fly line, for example a 5 wt, and weighing the line mark the line at 60, 80, 100 and 120 grains. The line is now marked at wts from 1 to 4. Experiment with how the rod loads at each line wt.

From my perspective though, 1 line for a rod is not sufficient; I will explain.
I fish frequently fish with weights not matched with my fly rod. I've concluded that I have a better fishing experience with different line weights under different weather conditions. In general a line matched to a rod, for example a 3 wt line to a 3 wt rod, works better for a variety of conditions. If the conditions warrant I will line down to get a better fishing experience and under some conditions will line up. The weather conditions are #1 wind velocity and direction and #2 moisture content of the air.
The same applies to using a standard fly line and one modified with a running line and the type of running line used, braid or mono. Different weather conditions require a different fly line system to maximize the experience, for me personally.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 1:35 pm • # 11 
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Is it the maxcatch v-feather rod? I'm using it with a 2wt line. First I used it with a 1 wt and that worked too but felt a bit underlined.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:29 am • # 12 
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JImred: Interesting insights! thanks. I'm afraid I've never considered wind direction or relative humidity in my line choices.
Dominikk85: Yes, its the v-feather. So your vote for 2wt seems in line with other observations.
brent


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:10 pm • # 13 
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wheezeburnt wrote:
JImred: Interesting insights! thanks. I'm afraid I've never considered wind direction or relative humidity in my line choices.
Dominikk85: Yes, its the v-feather. So your vote for 2wt seems in line with other observations.
brent

Under certain humidity conditions line will tend to stick to the rod, some materials more than others. If your underlining and with certain material it can become very difficult to get off a cast. I've only had this problem before day break in the morning and with high humidity; could be something else at play like ionization. I've tried dunking the rod and line in water during the day to see if I could duplicate the affect and have not been able to. But the effect is obvious when it happens, the line and rod seem glued to each other.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:24 pm • # 14 
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Red , I would think that it was normal and using a cheaper line they will all do that even with just lying on the water . But then again I am no expert .


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:58 pm • # 15 
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Red: we get the same effect here at or below 0 c. the line sticks in the guides due to water on the guides; except the water is frozen. Seriously, that's an interesting observation.
brent


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 8:45 pm • # 16 
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wheezeburnt wrote:
Red: we get the same effect here at or below 0 c. the line sticks in the guides due to water on the guides; except the water is frozen.
brent


I had that here today at 15 degrees...


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 11:09 pm • # 17 
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jangles wrote:
Red , I would think that it was normal and using a cheaper line they will all do that even with just lying on the water . But then again I am no expert .


Good suggestion. In the situation I was describing though, the cheap line does not normally go into the guides because there is only 21 ft of the cheap line and with this pick up and shoot method I pick up when the fly line enters the tip guide. Then attached to the cheap fly one is mono or braid. Under the condition I described the mono line with stick to the rod.
But Jangles, you might have discovered something I need to look into. I'll make up a 21 ft shooting head from better line and see if the better line overcomes the resistance of the mono sticking to the rod under the same weather conditions; I can rationalize this as a possibility: I have observed the cheaper line shedding more water picked up on the previous pick up than a better line; thus with the additional water weight combined with the humidity the acceleration could be affected.
Thanks for the suggestion.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 11:59 pm • # 18 
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JimRed wrote:
jangles wrote:
Red , I would think that it was normal and using a cheaper line they will all do that even with just lying on the water . But then again I am no expert .


Good suggestion. In the situation I was describing though, the cheap line does not normally go into the guides because there is only 21 ft of the cheap line and with this pick up and shoot method I pick up when the fly line enters the tip guide. Then attached to the cheap fly one is mono or braid. Under the condition I described the mono line with stick to the rod.
But Jangles, you might have discovered something I need to look into. I'll make up a 21 ft shooting head from better line and see if the better line overcomes the resistance of the mono sticking to the rod under the same weather conditions; I can rationalize this as a possibility: I have observed the cheaper line shedding more water picked up on the previous pick up than a better line; thus with the additional water weight combined with the humidity the acceleration could be affected.
Thanks for the suggestion.

If the cheaper line is shedding more water upon pickup I would assume that it is not floating as high as a better grade line .. Have you tried coating said cheap line with Gink or another floatant ?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 8:56 pm • # 19 
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Have you tried coating said cheap line with Gink or another floatant ?
No, haven't tried coating the line. I will try coating it with paste wax, I think that should work. Thanks for the suggestion.


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