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flyflingerandy1
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 1:55 pm • # 21 |
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Joined: 12/22/11 Posts: 1602
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Don, what is an acceptable substitute for the Tru-Oil for your leaders? Our Wal-Marts do not carry firearm accessories to speak of.
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Zenkoanhead
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:04 pm • # 22 |
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Joined: 12/22/11 Posts: 2056
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They don't? Any varnish will substitute. The convenience of Tru-oil is the size of the bottle. Don
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flyflingerandy1
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:09 pm • # 23 |
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Joined: 12/22/11 Posts: 1602
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Hmm...wood varnish type stuff or some other varnish? Sorry for the stupid questions, but varnish is something I know nothing about.
Our Wally Worlds up here got out of firearms two years ago for whatever reason. They carry a slim selection of barrel brushes and gun oil, but no varnish or tru-oil.
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Zenkoanhead
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:14 pm • # 24 |
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Joined: 12/22/11 Posts: 2056
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Yes. Wood varnish. I use tung oil because it last longer in the can and can be used for other things. Don
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flyflingerandy1
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 6:35 pm • # 25 |
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pszy22
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:59 am • # 26 |
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Joined: 02/18/09 Posts: 263
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I've unintentionally become a bit of a varnish expert over the course of the past few weeks. Am wrapping up a 2# blank, and wanted to finish the wraps using varnish, sounds simple enough right. Now the challenge, to find a can of varnish that costs less than the rest of the rod. Most places carry one, maybe two brands of varnish, typically in a quart can for about $12 - $15. After at least a week of looking, best place I found was ACE hardware, who carries a hlf pint can of Spar Varnish (which is what I was after) for $5.49.
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Zenkoanhead
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 6:41 am • # 27 |
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Joined: 12/22/11 Posts: 2056
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You should have checked with us first. Don
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pszy22
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:32 am • # 28 |
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Joined: 02/18/09 Posts: 263
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Thanks! I appreciate that.
Of course, that seems to be the story of my life, I figure out the easy way to do things after I'm done doing it the hard way. And to make matters worst, by the time I have to do it again, I've forgotten what I learned the first time around.
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flyflingerandy1
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:14 am • # 29 |
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Hero Member |
Joined: 12/22/11 Posts: 1602
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I am going to hunt down some tung oil to treat my leaders and the sort.
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rrhyne56
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:05 am • # 30 |
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Jr. Member |
Joined: 11/18/08 Posts: 96
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I've been using a Shorb loop in the end of my leader and a Perfection loop in the section of tippet. Snugging this up really tight removes the hinging (or at least a good deal of it) snipping the flattened loop in tippet allows for easy removal.
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pszy22
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:33 am • # 31 |
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Joined: 02/18/09 Posts: 263
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I agree, those loops are tough to disengage once they get cinched in, I just end up cutting the most expendable one and declare victory.
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Zenkoanhead
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 11:39 am • # 32 |
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Joined: 12/22/11 Posts: 2056
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A surgeon' knot will connect leader to tippet. The leader just keeps getting shorter. Don
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flybugpa
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:43 pm • # 33 |
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Joined: 03/31/09 Posts: 9
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I had bought a couple of leaders from pszy22 and they are the cats meow. I triple surgeons knoted a 2 ft Maxima 1x tippet connection and that was a bit much , the business end almost slappped the water, because of the stiffness. I cut back to a foot of maxima and 2 ft 3x, to a tippet ring, small 1mm i guess Pszy22 I counldn't get your mono thru the ring and then my 3x on the other side. Anyway the rig works great. when it comes togther don't mess with it.
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