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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 12:07 am • # 21 
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Joined: 11/10/12
Posts: 83
Location: Golden State
creekstalker wrote:
Honda motorcycle cleaner is what I use. You can get it at any Honda auto or motorcycle dealer. Here is a link I found about it. Works on everything!!


I use the same. I've even used it to shine my shoes!










http://www.bernardiparts...._08C25-P011M-NXTGEN.aspx


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 12:32 am • # 22 
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Joined: 05/16/09
Posts: 2123
Hmmmm...I guess I disagree. I never use Lemon Pledge on any fly rod. I use nothing but Scotts Liquid Gold on my fly rods....be they glass, carbon or cane. It contains no fillers or silicon. I spray it lightly on a clean rag then wipe it on the blank, reel seat, reel, let it dry, then wipe down with dry clean rag. I don't use it on the cork. I use Mr Clean Erasers on the cork when they get nasty. I would never put Lemon Pledge on any fly rod....and I clean my fly lines with warm water and dawn dish soap to cut any unpleasant things that might be built up on the line...rinse, the let them lay around in loose coils to dry before I reel them up on the reel with a fresh treatment of line dressing.

Another thing I never do is use any kind of wax for ferrules...builds up, attracts dirt which can scratch the blank and unlike Fenwick's instructions on their glass fly rods....never, never twist ferrules in place. I just line up and seat them home straight and good. Just check them often to make sure they are behaving and staying put.

But this is just me.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:30 pm • # 23 
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Rich,
I've never used the Butchers' Bowling alley wax, but I thought of it for rod finishes. Is it good for lines too?

Les


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:22 am • # 24 
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If you're gonna rebuild a rod; tie on some new guides, etc. just rub the rod clean of silicone with some alcohol and acetone and the silicone is gone-p-


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 6:33 am • # 25 
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Joined: 11/02/12
Posts: 26
Les:

I've never tried a wax made for wood on a fly line, but I suspect it's a bad idea. Wax is not a hard finish and will probably scrape off after a time of being pulled through guides. I don't coat my lines with anything, but many folks like the Armor-All type of protectants. I clean my lines and my cork with a strong solution of Murphy Oil Soap in warm water and Magic Eraser. Go easy on the line so you don't damage the coating.

--Rich


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 11:07 am • # 26 
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Joined: 09/17/12
Posts: 141
Location: Washington State
Rio has a couple of YT vids with their recommendations for cleaning a fly line. It basically involves stripping the line into a bucket of water with some dish washing detergent added, reeling it back up through mildly abrasive but soft medium similar to an aquarium filter, then stripping into a bucket of clear water for a rinse, reeling back through a soft absorbent cloth to dry. Finally stripping the line into an empty bucket and reeling back through a soft cloth dipped or sprayed with a line dressing. I"d probably use 303 Aerospace Protectant recommended for the PVC tubes of my Water Master if I didn't have a supply of the mfg's line dressing that has been included with a couple of lines I've purchased. When cleaning more than one line, putting all the lines through each step together is an efficient time saver.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 11:15 am • # 27 
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Posts: 141
Location: Washington State
Using paraffin on rod ferrules is pretty widely recommended for both helping to keep rod sections securely seated and reducing stuck ferrules. I carry a birthday candle in my kit and apply sparingly.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 1:23 pm • # 28 
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I use wax on ferules - mainly glass rods, but I was curious as to a different application since we had been talking about line treatments. It seems to me that polyester lines from the 1950's used a wax treatment - not mucillin.

Les


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