As you might have already guessed, midge fishing is one of my favorite methods to enjoy fly fishing. Here in Idaho, March, April and Early May are the best times to fish midges. I hope to give some instruction to the reader on tying two patterns that are a must when fishing with midges. The sizes below are what I call a #24 but I will let the reader in on a little secret, the hook is a Diachii wide gap, short shank #18. I will show some photos of why they are my hook of choice when tying really tiny midges. As the season progresses, tie the midges, gradually bigger and bigger, ending with a #18 or 16. Again in the Fall, I reverse the process and start with a #16 and end with a #24 by late November.
First, I hope you will forgive the photography. I am using a Point and Shoot and doing macro is touch to say the least with such simple equipment.
At the onset of the midge hatch, Larvae become active and begin 'wiggling' their way to the surface. The first fly shown is what I call a suspended Larvae version of the popular Zebra Midges, which uses a heavy bead to get down deep. IF I want to get deep, I just tie this fly behind a heavier weighted nymph, like I did yesterday in my "Fishing Reports Post".
This is the hook I use. It is labeled a #1510 Diachii #18.
This is that hook compared to a #22 Nymph hook. You can see it is smaller
This is that short #18 wide gap hook next to a standard Dry Fly #20...so I call it a #24...#22 at the biggest..whatever, it is small enough for tiny midges and the wide gap helps with hook sets...and keeping a fish hooked with such a small fly.
This is that short, wide gap hook next to a Dry Fly #16.
The bead I use. I like plastic beads. They come in more colors than metal and cost far less.
Slip a bead on the hook.
I being the fine silver wire right up against the bead to help hold it in place.
I use 8/0 Black (Tie a few in Red too), tie the wire back past the bend of the hook...another reason to use this wide gap hook.
My photography went to pieces so I missed a step or two, but I just use tying thread to form a very slightly tapered body. I use a lot of Krazy Glue in my tying. I run a thin film up the length of the body to help hold the thread in place and the wire in place over it...trust me, these flies take a beating in a fishes mouth and I caught over 10 fish yesterday on one fly. I want a bullet proof fly. I tie in a Peacock Herl for the gills.
Again with a thin film of Krazy Glue underneath, wrap a couple turns of herl at the head. The herl will stay wound on the hook much longer if glued in place.
Now to tie the "Shucking Verson" of this fly, I use the same hook but no bead. You want the butt of the fly to ride below the surface so it needs to be heavier but you want it to still hang suspended right at the surface like it is in the process of 'Shucking" or merging into an adult.
Use the same steps as in the beaded version of a midge.
Again a turn or two of Herl for 'effect'
Remember...Krazy Glue, man, Krazy Glue!
CDC is just too cool not to use. It will float for quite awhile and when it begins to fail, tie on a new one, but save the old one for when the midge hatch is over and you fish the "Midge Fall" lol. The fish are still hungry and looking for drowned midges. When the fly is totally used, abused and beat up, it will still catch fish in a "midge fall" so save them. That Krazy Glue will hold up for a long time.
Tie in 1/2 a CDC Puff
Secure with several wraps of thread that has a film of Krazy Glue on it. No need to whip finish..the glue will hold.
Remember to tie some with Red 8/0 tying thread too. I've even used Brown, Olive and Chartreuse version (don't ask me why Chartreuse but now and then, that color catches fish.
When you hook a fish on such a tiny fly, use fine tippet (I use 3lb) on a soft action rod. This is where Glass and Cane come into play. My Cabelas PT+ 2wt is just as good....but not as classy.
Enjoy. Feel free to PM me with any questions.
Dave Gale
Just a stones throw from the South Fork Snake River, Idaho.